New York Daily News Article
Greenport reborn as thriving tourist locale
By KAREN JONES
Published: Sunday, August 5th 2007
Once a tired seaside village, Greenport, L.I., is in the midst of a vibrant rebirth.
Buoyed by the nearby success of the North Fork's thriving vineyards and a concentrated effort to reinvent itself as a trendy tourist locale, Greenport's array of restaurants, accommodations, activities, shopping and nautical nuances are sure to please visitors of all ages.
Founded in 1638, Greenport is 8 miles from the eastern end of the North Fork. For centuries, it played a major role in the whaling, shipbuilding and fishing industries, which left their indelible mark on the village.
The railroad provided a direct link to Manhattan, which is still true today. Greenport's tight grid of streets is concentrated in a relatively small area, meaning nearly everything is within walking distance. A car isn't really necessary unless you want to take excursions to such nearby destinations as Shelter Island, the Hamptons and regional vineyards and beaches.
Blissfully free of Hamptons-style attitude, Greenport's two main drags, Front St. and Main St., feature quaint antiques shops, traditional B&Bs, kitschy tourist joints, art galleries, all manner of eateries and such trendy retail stores as Calypso and The Mint.
The jewel in the crown is Mitchell Park on Front St. This spacious, 4-acre waterfront park features a carousel (circa 1920), a winding harbor walk, an observation deck, magnificent water views and a 60-slip marina.
Elegant tall ships, battered commercial fishing rigs and all manner of recreational boats fill the harbor front. Fishing and pleasure charters are available, but for a quick harbor tour in an authentic electric boat, take a ride aboard the Glory with Captain Dave and his dog, Max.
There is no shortage of dining options, from fried seafood platters to first-class cuisine. Claudio's, the venerable seafood restaurant/clam bar, commands the harbor front, and newcomers such as The Frisky Oyster and The Fifth Season bring Manhattan-style fine dining.
The Fifth Season offers fresh seasonal ingredients expertly prepared by chef Eric Orlowski. You also can count on an excellent and reasonable lunch at the uniquely English-flavored Greenport Tea Company (try the tea sandwiches).
For a very casual meal right on the pier, there's Crabby Jerry's, but if you need a white tablecloth, visit Scrimshaw. When ready for dessert, stop into D'Latte for some of the best gelato east of Little Italy.
Greenport is a family-friendly town, so weekend nightlife here is not the pulse-pounding kind found elsewhere, though it does offer a nice variety of choices.
Wine aficionados can delight in sampling local and international specialties from the 50 wines at the hip and laid-back VINe Wine & Café.
The "bucket of rocks" and popcorn-shrimp crowd can enjoy live bands on Claudio's Dock, while Mitchell Park is home to traditional concerts by local musicians. Bay and Main has a deejay, and The Blue is a singles' haunt.
Accommodations include traditional B&Bs such as the Bartlett House Inn (circa 1905) and Harbor Knoll, with its own private beach. The delightfully retro Greenporter Hotel and Spa offers casual chic in just the right doses.
Once a dusty dive, the Greenporter Hotel and Spa was rebuilt from the ground up and now pampers guests with its spacious boutique hotel-style rooms, lap pool and award-winning bistro, La Cuvee Wine Bar.
The spa is under construction, but full-service treatments are available by appointment. Another relative newcomer, The Harborfront Inn on Front St., offers waterfront rooms.
Arts and culture in Greenport also have evolved way beyond scrimshaw, as galleries showing painting, ceramics, sculpture, photography, collectibles and more can be found throughout the village.
Jennifer Benton, who owns the Benton-Nyce Gallery, says: "Established or emerging, we are attracting artists locally and worldwide, making Greenport a destination for both artist and collector."
The artists are also making their work very accessible. From 6 to 9 p.m. on the third Saturday of the month, a group of galleries hosts "Art Walk," welcoming visitors to refreshments, gallery talks and viewing.
Meanwhile, those who want a dose of maritime lore can visit the East End Seaport Museum, next to the Shelter Island ferry and a stone's throw from the harbor.
There are plenty of public beaches in and around Greenport, but most require a parking permit. However, Fifth Street Beach is walkable, depending on where you are staying. Or you can always rent a bike at Bike Stop on Front St. (for information on beaches and permits, call the Recreation Department at 631-765-5182.)
With its salty past and savvy present, Greenport provides an easy summer respite for travelers ready to rediscover this historic region of the North Fork.